Cycle trailer question

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vegalot
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Cycle trailer question

Post by vegalot »

I was wondering if anyone had any info, from experience, on what type of fitting is best for attaching the trailer to the bike, the seat post type or the dropout type?
The trailer is going to be used for fetching stripped pallets and horse/chicken manure, I've
made the towbar extendable, just in case I come across any long pallets.
If a man is alone in the garden and speaks, and there is no woman to hear him, is he still wrong?
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Gareth
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Re: Cycle trailer question

Post by Gareth »

I own a small business that manufactures bespoke cargo carrying bicycles, tricycles, quads and bicycle trailers; along with a few other products.

I tend to to keep away from wheel stay towing points that are close to the centre of the wheel and axle because some of the forces involved can bend or damage these parts of a bicycle frame.

Wherever possible I mount the trailer towing point at the top of the seat stays triangle, and close to the welds on the frame so that the stresses are more evenly distributed throughout the frame. I've been building bicycle trailers for a few years now so I do have some experience of the unusal things that people want haul by bicycle. This is the method that I use on my personal hybrid bicycle for general purpose towing duties, the basic design of which I have made available on a free to use by all none commercial licence.

I have found that the bicycle and the trailer are more stable in use, both laden and unladen if the trailers drawbar pivot point is forward of the wheel centre; if you take a look at commercial articulated lorries this is where the 5th wheel trailer coupling is.

For the the towing point (hitch) I use a commercially available 10mm threaded quick/spring release industrial ball joint assembly which is used through out the production industry on control rods, etc. I have found these to be a strong, reliable, convenient and safe method of connecting a trailer to a bicycle. They are available for about £5 each from engineering supply outlets such as RS components, etc.

Photo removed for fear of copyright infringement


The components laid out before final fitting on to my bicycle's frame. I use a spring loaded quick attach 10 mm industrial ball joint assembly for the actual hitch; these are often found on the connecting rods of process machinery. I made up a suitable fixing arm for the ball joint from a length of 16 mm diameter steel bar, mitred it, welded it to a piece of 4 mm thick mild steel plate, and for the fitting I utilised 3 of 8 mm X 40 mm diameter stainless steel socket head bolts, 5 Stainless Steel flat washers, and 2 stainless steel nylock nuts; the lower bolt is threaded into the bottom of the 16 mm steel bar:

Photo removed for fear of copyright infringement]

Note; the piece of chain and the padlock that I have also included. This gives me some additional security when the bike and trailer are left outside of a shop, or parked up at the city cycle stands, and also as an extra safety device for if the trailer should ever jump the hitch when I am towing a load, etc.

Photo removed for fear of copyright infringement
Regards

Gareth
vegalot
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Re: Cycle trailer question

Post by vegalot »

Thank you, for that very detailed reply Gareth and the photos. )t' For now, the trailer has to built from recycled materials, either what I already have, or what I can source for free.

I like the seat triangle fitting, with all my research on the web, this is the first time I have seen that, it was always seat post or dropout fittings and I will be using your type, I'm sure I can design something similar.

I'm thinking along the lines of a homemade UV joint, with movement to 2 directions, there should be some slight play for roll in it. The roads are quite flat here and its not a great distance I have to go. I would prefer a ball joint fitting, but that will have to be a future project. =win=
If a man is alone in the garden and speaks, and there is no woman to hear him, is he still wrong?
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Gareth
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Re: Cycle trailer question

Post by Gareth »

Somewhere in my workshop, I have several of these left over. I no longer use this style because the ball joint is secured with a removable pin, and customers removed the pin to unhitch the trailer and subsequently mislaid the pin.

The ball end has a 10mm diameter male thread thread, and the socket end has a 10mm diameter female thread.

You can have one if you like for the cost of the P&P which will be £2.50.

Photo removed for fear of copyright infringement
Regards

Gareth
vegalot
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Re: Cycle trailer question

Post by vegalot »

If you don't mind waiting, until around mid january, I will take your very kind offer up. And should you require some advertising in the North west, I would be happy to fit a sign, to my trailer saying "This trailer was NOT built by Cargo Cycles" {rofwl}

If you would PM me with an address and whether you would want a SAE or just the cash.
And thanks again x2
If a man is alone in the garden and speaks, and there is no woman to hear him, is he still wrong?
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