Nick has finally decided to give in and put a roof on the run. We want to use clear corrugated plastic sheeting as it is relatively cheap and should do the job. The run is a bit of a strange shape, narrowing down towards one end so we'll just be covering the main bit which is 2.8m x 2.4m.
We're making a frame out of 2x4 around the outside to which we'll attach 5 sheets of plastic. The sheets are 3m long x 77.6cm wide. Nick wants to use 3/4 inch square lengths of wood to run as supports down the length of the sheets. These will sit up into the peaks of the plastic and fix at either end of the frame. Are you with me so far?...
I have a few of questions...
1) Will 3/4 inch supports stretching the length of the plastic be enough - he is intending on using 4 supports per sheet so about 20 supports across the 2.4m width
2) Should we also put a support (or two) across the width or will the long supports be enough?
3) He's trying to get away with not buying the spacers recommended. He understands that you should normally fix the sheets by screwing into the troughs rather than the peaks because of water seeping through the screw holes BUT he says the roof will be on an angle to allow for drainage so seepage shouldn't be an issue. He's hoping that by screwing into the peaks that he won't need the spacers... Are the spacers also needed to allow for expansion of the plastic? Will it work by putting some a rubber washer between the sheet and the support?
I just wish he'd let me get someone in to build it!
Lucy x
Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut - Ernest Hemingway
I have no idea about supports, but we used corrugated plastic and as the spacers were pricey, we used a squirt of clear sylicone sealent over the screws, its stopped any leaks. Hope this helps :)
Hi Lucy, now although I watch Eck doing that job I dont have a clue how to answer you ( bit like when he watches me cook dinner - he couldnt repeat that either ) but I will get him to answer you when he gets home if nobody else has done the job in the meantime
It will be alright in the end , if its not alright, it isn't the end . Quote from the proprietor of the The best exotic Marigold Hotel for the elderly and beautiful
I remember this subject coming up once before, and I'm sure p.penn is right about putting the screws into the peaks. I seem to remember Steve the Gas giving the same advice, because rainwater would run down into the troughs.
You've given me an idea for covering part of our similarly shaped run though!
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Hi Lucy The sheets of perspex we used were 8' ' and I built the frame out of 2"x2" I put an additional 3 2" " supports along the width of the sheets and where the the ridges came down onto the timbe(troughs) I fixed it with 1" screws and 1" washers so that the perspex had more strength around the screw holes.I also put silicon into the screwholes as I was fixing to waterproof them. We have had some really high winds since fitting the perspex and as we live at the top of a hill I feel the roof has been well tested. Hope this is of some help to you.
Just as Alex says, and make sure you put supports across the width of the sheets, otherwise if you get a heavy snowfall where you are the sheets will bow with the weight!....
I am old and wise, because I was young and stupid!.
We have just done the same - OH used galvanised screws the fixxings are rubbish they tend to split the plastic and you need loads (we used it on smaller runs when we first got the girls) - as a tip make sure you overlap the plastic by about 2 ridges to stop leakage. we have got 6 sheets 8ft long by approx 3ft wide to cover the whole run - we built an internal frame to support with the roof with 2 x 1 wood long supports from length to length and cross supports width to width and the main Frame is made with 3 x 2 we ended up putting a central support in the middle because the roof had a big dip and didn't feel that secure - we have put a slight angle on the roof and put guttering at the bottom and sides (that was added after heavy rain) WE have had high winds and lots of rain but it really works no more muddy run - the girls love the extra space but we added a little shelter inside the main run so they can all get out of the wind and snuggle up. And i've got a chair in there now so i tend to sit in with them most of the day anything else just ask OH says hes a professional Walk-in-Run with roof builder now (because it's stayed up)
I used this type but used screws rather than nails to get a better fix also hammering near clear poly sheet is not a good idea.
As long as you have a good fall for the rain to run off you wont have any problems with it.
We already had a 1.8 tall run and I used a 6"x2" on the front a 3"x2" across the middle and nothing on the rear, this gave me a good fall. I ran 2"x1" lengths front to back and secured them with some metal strapping (Wickes sell this on a roll near to joist hangers), this comes on a roll so you cut what you need and put your joist where you want it to be and form the strapping to hold the joist, it is predrilled with lots of holes, easy peasy. I used 2.4m runs to give a good overhang front and back. The cross pieces I used fence battens again from wickes cheap buying by the bundle and just laid them in place and screwed them down, dont bother trying to joint them on top of the joists let them overhang and lay next to one another, no sawing or measuring and provides extra stability
When I started building mine I had to keep reminding myself that it was just a run for chickens and not some fancy bit of trimwork that you would see in a kitchen.
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Hello, I built a 12ft sq crooked chicken run and used corrigated plastic over the top which seemed to do the trick and my wife was really pleased as she adores our 7 chickens, but, as the weather has started to turn and the rain came, I recieved a frantic call from Karen saying the chickens were wet and what should she do as it seemed the water was coming through the plastic corrigated roofing,,
When I got home the water had actually bowed the plastic corrigated roofing even though it had been supported by wood underneath and across the top.. and on more investigation the plastic had leaked in between the lap overs and now I have to all the whole thing down and start again,,,
Note to self and lesson learned,,, don't use corrigated plastic for the roof i would rather use hard board and felting,, you can get it cheaper on ebay check it out... thats my job at the weekend......
Just a thought before you decide to use felt on the roof!, felt is a great home for red mite to get under!!. I take it that the roof on your run is flat and does not have an angled run off for the rain water?. I would assume that this is the reason the rain collected on the corrugated sheet and caused it to bow under the weight?. Some of the guys on this forum use corrugated sheet panels with good affect, take a look at the members coop picture topic, it may give you some ideas!..
Agreed silverback, may have something to do with overlap or not having a drop, I had a problem with mine as I only had a slight drop and water collected I needed to push the middle up when it rained to release the water, I removed a length of 2x2 from under the lowest side to increase the drop. Not sure how it will stand up under snow though.
I just wish he'd let me get someone in to build it!
) but I will get him to answer you when he gets home if nobody else has done the job in the meantime 
' and I built the frame out of 2"x2" I put an additional 3 2" 
anything else just ask OH says hes a professional Walk-in-Run with roof builder now (because it's stayed up)
